Mixed with regular grey cement it will dry to an oyster white. For a bone white colour use white cement. For a range of colours, mix in oxides or water based paints (all colours will lighten when dry). For a marbled affect mix the cement in thoroughly and then fold in the oxides. Keep experimenting until you get the desired effect. Tiles, mosaics, all sorts of decorative items can be set in DARJIT as you're working it.
DARJIT! does not need to be painted, but can be. It can be clear coated for wet or high use areas, or waxed for a natural non toxic sealer.
DARJIT! can be used as a free form sculpting medium, or plastered on a mesh base. It can be cast into moulds to make planters, bird baths, columns, urns, architraves, etc, etc.
As committed recyclers,we are very excited about this product. It is 95% recycled, non-toxic and natural. A blend of china clay and rock powder, (a by-product of mining) and cellulose fiber, (from recycled paper products). We use water base paint from hazardous waste dumps as acrylic adhesive, it acts as a binder in our mixes.
Darjit can be applied directly out of the bag for a 100% recycled environmentally friendly material. As an interior plaster, it is prone to shrinking and dusting, and needs to be applied in layers 5mm or less thick. We recommend the addition of cement and/or acrylic adhesive, to control shrinking and dusting. You will need to add some water to the Darjit, as the Darjit in bags is quite dry.
9 parts darjit, 1 part cement, acrylic paint, and /or oxides can be used for colour.
Building light weight outdoor garden sculptures:
2 parts darjit, 2 parts sand, 2 parts cement.
Paving or flooring mix:
1 parts darjit, 2 parts fine plasterers sand, 2 parts cement, 10% acrylic adhesive,or waterbase paint
High strength plaster for exterior use and wet areas:
2 parts fine plasterers sand, 2 parts cement, ½ part darjit, 1 small handful Polypropylene fibers per 20 liter bucket,10%-15% acrylic adhesive,or waterbase paint.
As a conditioner for sand/cement plaster add 10% darjit to your sand cement mix for a smooth, buttery, malleable mix that holds well to all types of mesh or wire armature.
Use a heavy duty low speed drill, between 500 and 850 revs per minute, with a plasterers paddle, or can be mixed in a concrete mixer
To hand mix smaller amounts, use the ‘tarp method’, by adding all the ingredients on top of a small tarpaulin, keep folding it back on itself, and scrunching it with your feet.
MAKE SURE IT IS WELL MIXED!
For plastering dry porous surfaces like concrete, earth buildings, ferro cement etc, apply a concrete or PVA sealer, or wet the surface well with water before plastering.
For exterior sculpture, experiment with wetness/dryness of mix. Dryer for free form sculpture, wetter for casting in moulds or plastering on a mesh base.
Water proof membrain "Paint Plaster"
This plaster looks like stucco, but will stick to almost anything. It is fire proof, waterproof, very strong, flexable and very cheap to make. Get free latex paint from the local waste dump, fill a 4 gallon bucket to 1/3rd with paint add 1 large handfull finish coat polypropalene fiber, mix fiber well into the paint. Dry mix 1 part cement and 1 part fine sand. Add the sand/cement mix to the paint, mixing well till you have a thick batter, I like applying it with a flexable plastic trowel, add more paint or dry mix till it is a consistency you like working with. Be sure to use cloth mesh strips on all joints, use the paint plaster to trowel on the cloth mesh strips. I have plastered 3 plywood houses with this plaster, the first over 5 years ago applyed on T1 11, it is showing not signs of deteration, it takes paint well.
Making sculpture, walls, columns etc.
Linesmens pliers, square ends (with large cutting circle) - use these to make your wire ties, tacks. Consider filing off the sharp edges of the jaws of the piers if you have trouble with the wire ties breaking before they get tight enough.
Long nose pliers – use these to form and shape the lath and chicken wire with twisting, pulling and pushing
Wire cutters –shears for cutting the wire mesh .
Leather gloves – or prickle proof gardening gloves. If you like to take your gloves off a lot – looser leather ones are best. If you don’t take off your gloves and like a tight glove the garden ones are best.
Surgical gloves – not optional for handling the Darjit once it has been mixed with cement. Note – find the tightest ones possible to get the best finish on the surface of the Darjit for your top coat.
Buckets –for mixing
revs per minute (RPM) are the main consideration 300-800 RPM
A high torque plaster mixing drill is best. Rotory hammer drills often have a drill setting and a low RPM that make them suitable. Any drill in the RPM range of 300-800 will work
variable speed does not mean the drill has low RPM
Plaster mixing paddle
Darjit can be used like clay and moulded to make objects.
But it comes into its own as a plaster coat to use on top of preformed armature.
Armature can be made using a wide variety of objects but the materials you use for the armature need to reflect the scale of the piece – ie it needs to be strong enough to support the final size.
Choices here include:
Rebar – very strong – plus there are different diameters to choose from
Square welded mesh 18 gadge,13mm/1/2inch hole size – looks a bit like chicken wire – but has squares instead of hexagons. Is stronger than chicken wire
Expanded Metal Lath (lath, or stucco lath) has the best shaping, workability and reasonable strength, 2.5 lb per sheet is the gauge that is shapeable.
Chicken Wire (Hexagonal Wire Mesh) – is very easy to roll and fold but not very strong, 13mm/ ½ inchhole size
Polystyrene – can be carved and shaped to form a plastering surface
Plastic tubing/Chairs/buckets and other existing objects
Wood – see note below.
There are a couple of ways to secure these things together.
Welding – useful for work with rebar
Rebar tie wire
Metal wire loops
Electrical zip ties
Don’t be precious – experiment, and redo.
Don’t let armature limit you. Why use a chair as a base if you are going to disregard its shape, or not build on it?
Make sure you measure as you go along. Scale can get out of whack very quickly. If you make a mistake – undo it and start again – that way the error does not compound. It is best just to tack things in place until you have your final form – so they can be changed quickly/easily, but be sure to fully tie it before plastering.
It is best to use metal, plastic, stabile material as the base for your armature.
If using wood for armature you will need to leave an air space around the wood as wood swells and shrinks with moisture and will crack the plaster.
Rebar (reinforcing bar)
Use rebar when you need to create a stronger skeleton .
The steel in rebar won’t rust if it is coated in cement.
You can use cement slurry to protect it if required – see below.
Use paint brush to flick slurry through wire onto re-bar
There are a verity of rebar benders available, vise’s work well too.
If you don’t have a rebar bender, find something really strong to wedge it in.
A storm water drain grill works well – as does a sturdy bike rack.
Use body weight and gravity to shape.
Be careful not to destroy other people’s property.
When making curves do it incrementally, lots of small bends .
Rebar can be retrofitted to the outside of armature – it will be covered up with Darjit later.
Welding is the strongest way to join rebar – however it can be joined using ties/tacks.
To join using tacks - loop it around twice and twist it gently.
Then pivot the pliers using the the rebar or another object to pull it tight. This way you aren’t tightening with the twisting action (as this may break the tie).
You can also use the shape of the rebar to add strength.
Expanded metal lath
Lath is by far the most versatile mesh to work with, it has much more structural strength than Chicken wire and is much easier to shape than Hardware wire cloth. It makes a large range of shapes, has smaller holes size so you can do a 1 coat finish if you want very thin shapes, like dogs ears, leaves etc.
Good when you need structure not so easy to shape. Things like columns chairs walls.
Gauge is significant. 18 or 19 gauge is good, lighter gauges are easy to shape but don’t have the same strength.
It can be strengthened by rolling and folding it.
Minimize the amount of cutting as this further weakens the wire.
Always cut more chicken wire than you think you will need as when you work it - it will get scrunched and compressed.
CW will become more rigid when it is stretched.
It stretches easily on one plane – but not the other.
You can twist CW to join onto itself rather than using tacks.
Twisting can also be used to firm up the CW. Use long nose pliers to pull up and twist pimples.
Twist CW using your long nose pliers to create fullness eg
Please note CW rolls better one way than the other for forming tubes that you want to put a curve in.
Basic Armature Shapes
The tube is a versatile shape when making armature (underlying structure).
You can form HWWC into a tube to use as a base for you piece – or as a pillar for your wall!
You can form CW tubes to add structure and form to that base.
You can use a series of them to build something up. For example to make a beer belly – rather than just using one coil roll of CW – use three to provide strength.
Try to minimize double handling by tacking stuff in place. Make your manipulations and then tie down all together. The tacks you make for the CW will secure the HWWC at the same time.
Form a large tube with hardware-wire. Fold it over at the top and bottom to provide strength. If you are intending to sculpt the pillar you may need to provide additional support for this.
To provide a relief base:
Roll chicken wire into a tube (as detailed in previous section).
Roll around pillar
Secure in place with metal ties.